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  • #16
    Looking good

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Mini Forklift View Post
      Turned up this morning

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      Congratulations, Mini Forklift ...The gold plated case should clean up well with a careful polish, as the scratches will come off easier than on stainless steel. Brown straps are great with gold-tone. Cal. 6309 could also be 1987, but the styling on this -8080 is much more likely to be 1977.
      On the instruments we entrust to pace our lives, to bear witness to our days, and to be the keepers of the most precious thing we have... time.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Don View Post

        Congratulations, Mini Forklift ...The gold plated case should clean up well with a careful polish, as the scratches will come off easier than on stainless steel. Brown straps are great with gold-tone. Cal. 6309 could also be 1987, but the styling on this -8080 is much more likely to be 1977.
        Cheers Don. The brown strap that I've put on it is not new, kinda apt for this watch. You are correct, serial number puts it as either 1977 or 1987. The source that I got it from told me that it was his father's and he's sure that it dates to October 1977, I took him at face value when I bought it

        I'm going to take it into 'The Time Doctor' in Christchurch tomorrow, hopefully a good clean and some expertise can get it running a bit more accurately than it is right now. What would you recommend polishing it with? Sorry for the potentially stupid question

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Mini Forklift View Post
          ...
          What would you recommend polishing it with? Sorry for the potentially stupid question
          Not a stupid question at all, and glad you've asked ...Many here would have their own approach on how to go about it, so this is just mine. I would recommend that you do this yourself, by hand, rather than have it done by a watchmaker who will machine-polish it. Watch repairers are normally used to the more mainstream customer who wants every scratch removed, whatever it takes, thus often prioritize scratch-removal over originality of the case lines--seen too many sad outcomes.

          We enthusiasts only want the watch to be more presentable, not necessarily totally scratch-free, so doing it yourself by hand is best. First thing to be very aware of is that Seiko Gold Plating (SGP) is only around 10-20 micron thick, and gold is soft, so polishing must be done slowly, with care. Too much and you'll soon take the plating off! ...For something like this, I use Cape Cod Polishing Cloth and soft paper towel.

          There are sellers selling Cape Cod cloths on TradeMe for $25+, but you'll find them at local vaping suppliers, including online, at just a little over $10 (and no, I don't vape ) ...You can search "Cape Cod Polishing site:.nz" (without quotes)
          On the instruments we entrust to pace our lives, to bear witness to our days, and to be the keepers of the most precious thing we have... time.

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          • #20
            Thanks for the reply Don, much appreciated. I am exactly along the same lines of your thinking, if I polish it at all it will be extremely light. It's an old watch and each scratch has a story, so to speak. The case itself isn't too bad, I've basically given it a clean and got rid of any 'gunk' that was on it; the worst part with regards to scratches is the plexiglass, so I think I will give this a good buff out to see if I can remove a lot of the heavier scratching

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Mini Forklift View Post
              Thanks for the reply Don, much appreciated. I am exactly along the same lines of your thinking, if I polish it at all it will be extremely light. It's an old watch and each scratch has a story, so to speak...
              You're welcome, and I'm glad that you appreciate it that way The piece has been well loved, I think.


              Originally posted by Mini Forklift View Post
              ...the worst part with regards to scratches is the plexiglass, so I think I will give this a good buff out to see if I can remove a lot of the heavier scratching
              Doesn't look too bad actually, and is congruent with the rest of the watch. Is it Plexiglas or Hardlex on this one? If the former, should be easy. Polishing Hardlex is difficult, and usually doesn't work out well.
              On the instruments we entrust to pace our lives, to bear witness to our days, and to be the keepers of the most precious thing we have... time.

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Don View Post

                Doesn't look too bad actually, and is congruent with the rest of the watch. Is it Plexiglas or Hardlex on this one? If the former, should be easy. Polishing Hardlex is difficult, and usually doesn't work out well.
                I think it's Plexiglass. I've just spent some time cleaning it up and have managed to take out the majority of the scratches. I gave the case a clean but didn't buff or polish it, IMO it's came out looking really good

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                Oddly the accuracy seems to have balanced out considerably after a day and a half on the wrist... maybe it just hadn't been used in a while and needed a settling in period?

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                • Guzz
                  Guzz commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Looks mint. I wouldn't change a thing.

              • #23
                That looks wonderful, Mini Folklift ...You know, in terms of aesthetics, I'd leave it just as that


                Originally posted by Mini Forklift View Post
                ...
                Oddly the accuracy seems to have balanced out considerably after a day and a half on the wrist... maybe it just hadn't been used in a while and needed a settling in period?
                As you know, Cal. 6309 has no auxiliary manual-winding. The crucial element in getting the most out of these movements is to ensure that the mainspring is properly wound before setting the time, and kept sufficiently wound to maintain the specified performance. This reduces the effect of isochronism, a phenomenon in mechanical watches where the state of wind of the mainspring affects the accuracy rate. The Seiko Instruction guide states that, before setting the time, the owner should swing the watch "in a horizontal arc for about 30 seconds".

                Unfortunately, this is something that most owners fail to do, instead merely shaking it to start. For those like me, who may not be moving about enough throughout the day and would like the accuracy to be optimal, we should wind the mainspring fully, or close to full. To do so, please swing for approximately 400 times. Alternatively, you can hold the watch by the straps, dial facing up, and swirl it, like you would a brandy in a glass. This would also be for around 400 times.

                After doing this, set the time, and see whether the running state improves. I've posted this a few years ago here... https://www.timekeeper.co.nz/forum/w...6811#post36811
                On the instruments we entrust to pace our lives, to bear witness to our days, and to be the keepers of the most precious thing we have... time.

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                • #24
                  Originally posted by Don View Post
                  Welcome to Timekeeper, Mini Forklift

                  I think that's the first King Turtle on our forum
                  Would have thought thereā€™d be a few more by now ?!

                  I have got my eyes on a Black Bay Bronze right now, really think Tudor nailed it with that one and the fact they discontinued it only adds to the appeal (and want)!
                  Last edited by Mini Forklift; 15-10-20, 18:39.

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